The Setting: This narrow, glass fronted restaurant offers a generous amount of bar, table, and booth seating. And, a pizza bar in the rear allows diners to watch the pizza making process from start to finish.
The Staff: Quirky servers have led to some awkward moments. For example, on our last visit, the server was not well-versed on the herbs that top each pizza. She corrected (incorrectly) someone in our party when they named the proper herb. And, then she went on to explain how that herb (the herb that is actually used on the pizza) wouldn’t be right for the pizza.
On another occasion, we arrived in the middle of a rainstorm (sheets of rain pouring down from the sky). The valet offered no umbrella. Instead, he told us the door was just around the corner. He said, “Just make a run for it. It’s only a few steps.” In actuality, it was significantly more than a few steps and we got soaked to the core.
The Food: Near perfect… We’ve sampled the pizza on a number of separate occasions. And, we haven’t experienced any of the inconsistencies we’ve seen noted elsewhere.
The dough was properly fermented and aged. The baking time was close to perfection. Every exposed surface of our pizza crust was dark golden with dots of char. The exterior of the crust was crisp with a soft-yet-chewy interior. We also noted a lovely assortment of air bubbles distributed throughout the dough (Without the generous distribution of air bubbles pizza crust can be unpleasantly dense). And, the toppings from sauce to cheese to herb are applied in the proper ratio.
Verdict: The pizza is nearing perfection. The servers and valets could use some guidance.
Varasano’s Pizzeria
2171 Peachtree Rd
Atlanta, GA 30309
404 352 8216
www.varasanos.com
